| May 18, 2003 |
By Jessica K. Smith, Record-Journal staff |
Ted's burgers hit big screen
MERIDEN - Already the star of its own Web site, the steamed cheeseburger - a specialty at one Broad Street location - will soon be the star of a documentary.
Ted's Restaurant, home of the "world famous" burger, was recently chosen by George Motz, a New York City-based cinematographer, to be included in a documentary called "Hamburger America." Motz spent six months researching burgers around the country to find eight to showcase in the film.
"I knew they were going to be great," Motz said of Ted's. "The steamed cheese alone sounded wonderful. When I mention the process to people in the burger community, they can't imagine how it would taste or if it would even be any good. I hope these people make it to Ted's one day soon to find out."
Motz and his crew filmed footage at Ted's last week, while owner Paul Duberek worked the steamer and answered questions about his restaurant.
"I'm honored to be selected as one of eight across the United States," Duberek said. "I'm truly honored they took the time and made me feel like I was part of something special."
There were three main criteria Motz used for selecting the burger joints. He wanted family-owned restaurants that had been open for at least 40 years and have had the same burger on the menu since opening; fresh ground meat only, no frozen patties; and each place featured must make its burgers differently and have a story.
"Ted's fits into this nicely," Motz said, adding that most of his documentaries are on people and their passions, and the hamburger is a vehicle to get them talking about their passions.
Duberek began working at the restaurant with his father when it opened in 1959. He took over the family business on his 21st birthday in 1972, and has been steaming burgers to perfection ever since.
"Running the steambox - it's almost like playing an instrument," Duberek said of the cooking process. "I could sense when something is done, how long it takes. Every cheeseburger comes out as close to perfect as it can get."
The restaurant gets its beef and Kaiser rolls daily, and its Vermont cheddar cheese weekly. Duberek said his first concern is his product, and has at times had to send back an entire order of beef that wasn't up to standards.
Duberek rotates trays of beef in the steamer, lifting each burger out and giving the customer the option of being served the burger with or without its juices.
"Supposedly, grilled cheeseburgers are associated with carcinogens," Duberek said. "The steamed cheeseburger is in its purest form, it's basted in its own juice."
Even on a rainy Monday afternoon, customers lined up in a fairly constant flow to get their fill of the oddly shaped pile of juicy beef smothered under a chunk of melted cheddar.
Prospect resident Rich Guerrera said he's been to Ted's several times for the great burger.
"It's unique because of the flavor - you can't get that from a grilled cheeseburger," he said.
"The cheeseburger is great, probably the best I've ever had," added Lisa Sanangelo, also from Prospect. "It's juicier and more flavorful."
Armond Barneschi, a former Meriden resident now living in Newington, said that he has come to Ted's since it opened in 1959. Barneschi recalled coming to Ted's after a night out with friends, when the restaurant would stay open until 4 a.m. Those were the days before Interstate-91, when truckers would use Route 5 as a main north-south access.
"It's a classic," Barneschi said as he sat at the counter finishing his lunch. "It's really good and it hasn't changed since they opened."
Other burgers Motz chose for his documentary include the 103-year-old hamburger sandwich recipe at Louis' Lunch in New Haven, the deep-fried burger of Dyer's in Memphis and the green chili cheeseburger at Santa Fe's Bobcat Bite.
Motz said he would submit the film to next year's Sundance Film Festival in Park City, Utah, if it is finished on time, and also to the South by Southwest Film Festival in Austin, Texas.
"The plan is to open the film to the film market for overseas rights purchase and who knows what else," Motz said. "I'm fairly confident the film will work out and be a success based on the subject matter and the places I've chosen to be in the film. But, the beauty of documentaries is that you never know."
Ted's is currently featured on Motz's Web site: www.hamburgeramerica.com
jessicasmith@record-journal.com